Six Walks around Old Liverpool in 1834

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Six Walks around Old Liverpool in 1834

From 'Picture of Liverpool: A Strangers Guide Published in 1834 (my own copy)

Some text is hyperlinked leading to separate pages for more information about a dock, building or church

Ist walk From the town Hall to the Northern Docks, and back to the Exchange, by way of Great Howard street and Oldhall street

From the town hall we proceed along Castle Street until we arrive at the southern end, where stands St George’s church: on this spot was situate the old castle. Then turning to the right we enter James street, at the higher part of which is the old fish market (opened as a general market on 1st December 1826), at the present time used as a general market. Continuing our course down this street, - (the old houses which formerly lined each side of it were lately taken down, and on one side spacious and commodious warehouses have been erected) – we approach the passage which connects the Dry Dock and George’s Dock

We now cross an elegant iron swivel bridge, and looking towards the north we have George’s Dock in front, and on the east side of which rises a noble pile of buildings called the Goree Warehouses, that present a vivid idea of an extensive and wealthy commercial city. For the accommodation of foot passengers, spacious piazzas run along the entire front of these buildings. The original warehouses that occupied the site were burned down in the year 1802: the loss was estimated at Ł44,500 for the buildings, Ł120,000 for the grain, Ł60,000 for sugar, Ł8,500 for coffee, Ł30,000 for cotton, Ł60,000 for sundries, and forming a total of Ł323,000. The former warehouses were two stories higher than the present are. On the west side of the dock we have in view the new Baths, which constitute a considerable ornament to this part of the town. In front of the baths is St George’s Pier, where there is a constant throng from morning till night, occasioned by multitudes of persons who are either on the point of embarking in the numerous Steam Boats that ply to the various ferries on the opposite shore, or to some more distant port in Ireland, Scotland, or Wales, or else landing after having returned from some pleasurable excursion or voyage of business.
The uses of these docks, and the various works connected with them will be too manifest to require an explanation here. Pursuing our course to the gates at the north end of the dock, we again cross a bridge of like construction to the former, and arrive at the Old Church (St Nicholas) , from the yard of which we have a view of this part of the river and of the Cheshire coast opposite.
Leaving this spot we advance towards the river again, but a little to the north, and shortly we approach the passage that communicates with George’s Dock Basin and the Prince’s Dock, which is enclosed by a substantial brick wall, is the Prince’s Parade, one of the most extensive and finest marine promenades in the kingdom, and which is much frequented about the time of high water especially in fine weather.
For the accommodation of the public there are benches placed at convenient distances, and at each end there is a covered shed, serving as a shelter against the heat of summer, and the inclemencies of winter

A stone wall about a yard high protects the side next to the river, and at suitable distances there are flights of steps, for the convenience of people embarking and disembarking. During the summer season the Floating Bath is moored at a short distance from the southern part of this walk. The opposite part of Cheshire is seen to great advantage here, interspersed with neat cottages and several elegant dwellings: and further to the west we perceive Bidston Hill, on which stands the Lighthouse built in the form of a tower , besides a range of lofty poles, used for the purpose of hoisting signals, by which means intelligence is conveyed to the town of the appearance of vessels in the channel long before they enter the river . A little above the shore near the northern extremity are the Magazines , where vessels take in their powder on going out to sea, and where they deposit it on their return into port. Further to the right a strong fort, mounting eighteen thirty two pounders, has been recently erected; and a little to the north of this is a handsome Light-House, in a circular form, and composed of granite, well jointed and cemented with a volcanic material called puzzilani, obtained from the vicinity of Mount Etna. This cement is said to grow continually harder, so as to aquire a durability equal to that of stone.
Turning to the right of the northern end of the parade, we approach the passage that leads from the Prince’s Dock to it’s basin. Here again we pass over a neat swivel bridge and enter the Waterloo road, to the west of which are several new docks but in an unfinished state. Within a very few years past all this space formed a part of the bed of a river and was much resorted to for the purposes of bathing. Continuing our course to the north we come to the Clarence Dock which is surrounded by a strongly built high stone wall. From the Western side of this dock we obtain a distinct prospect of the opposite part of Cheshire, and an extensive view of the river.
On leaving this dock we enter Regent rd, a new street, in which several good buildings have been recently erected: and passing hence through Regent street we come to Great Howard street, where turning to the right hand and after proceeding a short distance we arrive opposite to the Borough Gaol, formerly called the French prison, in consequence of many of the captives taken in the late war being incarcerated here, but at the present time it is allotted chiefly to the custody of bankrupts and insolvent debtors. It is a spacious stone building and stands in a healthy situation. Continuing our course a little further we approach the Leeds and Liverpool Canal Basin, which is surrounded with warehouses and coal yards. On the right hand after crossing the bridge is the site of the Old Ladies Walk, which was much resorted to about sixty years ago as a public promenade. A little to the left of the cupola of St Paul’s church is seen, towering above the adjacent edifices. We now pursue our course along Oldhall street, which derives it’s appellation from a mansion belonging to the Mores, once situate here, and formerly called the Old Hall. This street, which has been much widened within a few years past, leads to Chapel street, where passing through a splendid vestibule of the Doric order, we find ourselves in the area of the Exchange Buildings in the centre of which stands a magnificent bronze monument erected to the memory of the immortal Lord Nelson. This monument and the surrounding pile of building possesses the highest claim to the notice of the stranger

2nd walk

Down Water street, to the Docks south of James’s street – return by St James Church, through St James street, past the New Custom House, and up Pool lane

Starting again from the town hall we enter Water street, at the lower part of which, on the right hand , a handsome range of new warehouses is situate; those below the Tower Garden occupy the spot where the Old Tower formerly stood to the foot of which the tide was once accustomed to flow. Turning to the left from the bottom of this street we proceed along the Goree Piazzas, and passing the lower end of James street we arrive at Strand street, the western side of which with some other buildings that formerly faced the dock was taken down in the course of the improvements that the corporation has been carrying on in this quarter of town. On the right is the dry dock which has recently been repaired and enlarged. Vessels of small burthen are usually stationed here. Further down to the west are nos 1, 2, and 3 Graving Docks

Advancing a little further to the south we arrive at the Salthouse Dock, over the entrance of which is placed an old fashioned drawbridge that presents an awkward and uncouth appearance when compared with the elegant bridges that cross the entrances of other docks

Between the west side of this dock and the river there are several yards, appropriated to ship building. Passing Cornhill we approach the Duke’s Dock, adjacent to which is a fine range of warehouses, belonging to the trustees of the late Duke of Bridgewater. We are now arrived at Wapping; and inclining a little towards the river we come to the King’s Dock, the form of which is a quadrangle and on the west side are seen the Tobacco warehouses, that occupy a space of three acres, one rood, and twenty five perches of statute measure. On the further side of this building is the Marine Parade, from which is a fine view of the river, and the opposite villages of Tranmere and Birkenhead.

At low water an extensive sand bank is visible which has greatly increased within the last few years.

Continuing our course a little further in the south we approach the Queen’s Dock; hither Baltic and Dutch shipping and vessels employed in the timber trade chiefly resort. On the west side of this dock are situate nos 4 and 5 Graving Docks and between Baffin street and the river there are several shipwrights yards

We now come to the Brunswick Dock; the last to the south; and retracing our steps until we arrive at Parliament street, which is situate on the east side of the Queen’s Dock. And which forms the boundary on this part of town, we pursue an easterly direction, and have on the right side Toxteth Park, that has become very populous within a few years past. After having gone about seven hundred yards we arrive at St James’s Church a plain brick structure, with a spacious cemetery; and a little to the left stands St James’s Market, which has been recently erected for the accommodation of the inhabitants of the south end of the town.
We now proceed down St James’s street and at a short distance from this street on the right is situate Great George square, and a little lower down on the same side we obtain a glimpse of St Michael’s Church , a beautiful stone edifice, with a magnificent portico, the pillars and capitals of which are modelled after those of the temple of Jupiter Stator in the Forum at Rome. It is to be regretted that in consequence of the proximity of adjacent houses, this exquisite colonnade cannot be viewed to full advantage . The stranger ought to take the opportunity of inspecting this elegant specimen of architecture.
We now enter Park-lane and shortly arrive at one of the Free schools, erected by the corporation and near to the bottom of this street stands St Thomas’s Church whose spire before long taken down was one of the most symmetrical and beautiful in the country, and when viewed from the river, or opposite coast, was truly a picturesque object. Passing the chancel of the church, we enter a small street which leads to Cleveland square, where formerly resided some of the most influential inhabitants of the town but at present is used as a market, and most of the houses have been converted into shops. We now enter Price street, and after going a few yards we are presented with a view of the lower part of the new Custom house, which is now being erected, and which when completed will be one of the most magnificent structures in the kingdom
Continuing our way along the eastern side of these works we have the Old Custom House on the right hand: this building is altogether destitute of architectural beauty. Turning to the left we soon arrive at Pool lane, at the higher end of which stands St George’s Church, and from this place we have a good view of Castle street and the Town Hall. This street is to be widened, when the east side will be in the same line with St George’s crescent.

3rd walk

Lord street – Church street – Bold street – St James cemetery – George street – Duke street – and Paradise street

Starting from St Georges Church we pursue our way down Lord street, which has lately been widened and improved, and the south side has been entirely rebuilt. Formerly this street was so narrow that two carriages could hardly pass each other and it was closed at the top with the exception of two small passages to the right and left, one of which communicated with Harrington street and the other with Cable street. This is one of the greatest improvements that the corporation has caused to be made in the town. At the bottom of the street a bridge was once erected, and anteriorly ferry boats were stationed here for the purpose of conveying passengers over that part of the pool which flowed over this spot. We now arrive at the bottom end of Church street, on the north western corner of which is situate the Museum; and proceeding a short way further we have St Peter’s Church on the right, a little to the south of which is also seen the Blue Coat School We next come to Post Office-place, in which is situate the Post Office, at a distance of about fifty yards from the front of Church street. At the higher corner of this passage stood the old Dispensary which was taken down a short time ago, and the site is now occupied by the present extensive pile of buildings. We next arrive at the Athenaeum News Room, which stands on the same side, and is supplied with one of the most valuable libraries in this part of the kingdom

Continuing our course we come to Bold-street which presents a pleasing appearance, having St Luke’s Church at the higher end, and the Lycaeum News Room and Library at the left-hand corner of the lower end . The latter edifice is a beautiful specimen of Grecian architecture. At a short distance higher up on the same side is the Rotunda, which is appropriated to billiards, and is supported by subscription. The next street on this side is Slater-street, near to which is situate the School for the Deaf and Dumb. A little higher up we have on the left hand the Savings bank which was originally built for a Freemason’s Lodge, and on the opposite side is Colquitt-street, in which the Liverpool Royal institution is situate. The Statue Gallery and extensive museum of this establishment are well worthy of the visot’s notice.

We are now arrived at the top of Bold-street where stands St Luke’s Church, one of the finest modern Gothic structures in the kingdom. It’s architecture and workmanship are deserving of attention. Continuing our perambulation along Leece street, which is situate on the north side of this building we come to Rodney-street, and turning to the right hand we proceed until we approach the higher part of Duke-street, where our attention is arrested by the Oratory of St James’s cemetery. This is indeed a beautiful edifice, displaying a high degree of classical elegance. Passing along the northern wall we have on the right a good prospect of the cemetery, and entering Hope-street, in which have recently been erected several elegant houses, we turn to the south, and from this situation the Oratory is seen to great advantage. On leaving this street we enter Upper Parliament street, and inclining to the right we approach a neat stone gateway, which is the southern entrance to the Cemetery.
We are now arrived at the steps to the south of St James’s Walk, ascending which if the weather is favourable, we obtain an extensive view of a part of the town, the river, and a great portion of Cheshire, and in the background the Welsh mountains terminate the view, The shubbery attached to the promenade is kept in good order and neatly laid out. Descending the steps at the northern end we have the Oratory and Minister’s residence on the right, and proceeding down Duke street we pass St Mark’s Church, which is a plain brick edifice. A little lower down Great George street opens on the left, with a view of the Chapel belonging to the Independants. Pursuing our way we come to the Union News Room, situate at the corner of Slater-street. This is a neat stone building in front of the Union Arms. Arriving at the bottom of this street we enter Paradise Street, near the northern end of which stands the Chapel belonging to the Unitarians

4th Walk Dale Street – Shaw’s Brow – London Road – Brownlow Street – Botanic Garden – Abercromby Square – Mount Pleasant – and Ranelagh Place.

Shaw's Brow
Setting out once more from the Town Hall we proceed along Dale-street, one of the oldest in the town, and which until a few years ago was very narrow. Several old houses stood on the north side but they were taken down when the street was widened. Opposite to Crosshall-street is the office belonging to the Liverpool Gas-Light Company, and at the lower end there were formerly flood gates. Passing Byrom-street on the left and the Haymarket on the right, we ascend to Shaw’s Brow, and though rather steep at present, it was much more so some years ago. It is understood that the houses on the south side are soon to be taken down. At the top on the right hand stood the old Infirmary and the Almshouses; but these buildings have been entirely removed, and the ground is not yet built on. The opposite side is now occupied by Islington Market "......This building is partially covered, and is situate in Shaw's Brow
Besides these are the markets held in Pownall Square and Cleveland Square. Another for Hay and Cattle in Lime-street, and one for pigs in Great Howard-street.
A new and extensive Cattle Market has recently been established about three miles off, near to the Old Swan, on the London road
The markets of this town are abundantly supplied with every necessary and luxury of life. From the adjacent parts of Lancashire are brought fresh butter, milk, poultry, eggs, potatoes, greens, garden herbs, and fruits of various kinds. From Cheshire are received cheese, fresh butter, potatoes, poultry, eggs, frutis etc. Ireland and Scotland send a vast supply of horned cattle, sheep, hogs, hams, bacon, salt butter, grain, ptoatoes, eggs, poultry, &c, &c, and from North Wales, Anglesea, and the Isle of Man are imported large quantities of live poultry, fresh butter, eggs &c. A great abundance of the finest fruits, both of domestic and foreign growth, is constantly found in these markets..."

We are now arrived at London road, and having gone a few paces we approach the Blind Asylum, situate on the south side, and at the distance of about one hundred and fifty yards on the east side of Duncan-street, stands that beautiful structure of the Church belonging to this charity. Passing Norton-street and Seymour-street we next arrive at the equestrian statue of George III, executed in bronze by Westmacott.
This is a fine production and shows the good taste and skills of the artist. Advancing along Pembroke Place we enter Brownlow-street on the right, and immediately we arrive at the new Infirmary, which claims the attention of the visitor as well for the elegance as the magnitude of the structure. Leaving this street we enter Brownlow-hill; and before us is the front of the Workhouse, and a short distance to the east is seen the House of Recovery ".... This is a plain stone edifice situate a little to the east of the Wokhouse, and is appropriated to the reception of those persons who are afflicted with fevers. Physicians, or any of the officers belonging to the Dispensaries or infirmary have the privilege of recommending patients. By the advice of the late Dr Currie, this institution which is under the direction of the select vestry, churchwardens and overseers, was separated from the Workhouse. It was opened on the 1st of March 1806 and stands in an airy situation. Every care and attention are there given to the sick and by means of this establishment many contagious disorders are prevented from spreading among the community.." ...opposite to which is the new Lunatic Asylum, enclosed by a high stone wall. "....This institution formed for the truly benevolent purpose of affording relief to one of the most dreadful of human afflictions was originally opened in the year 1789 near to St John's Church but was recently removed to the present commodious and neat stone building situate in Ashton-street, Brownlow Hill
Pursuing an easterly direction we have a view of St Mary’s Church, Edge Hill, with many of the adjacent buildings. We now turn to the right through Crown-street, at the further end of which is situate the Railway yard, where the omnibuses and other vehicles take up the passengers who may have arrived by the Railway carriages, or set down those persons who are about to depart. A little to the west are situate the Botanic Gardens, the lodges of which we pass in going along Oxford-street; and after proceeding s short distance we approach Abercromby-square. This square consists of a number of elegant mansions, and the area is occupied by a shrubbery, tastefully laid out, and enclosed by iron palisades.
One the eastern side stands St Catherine’s Church, adorned with a handsome portico of the Ionic Order. Leaving this street we enter Mount Pleasant, formerly called Martindale-hill, which was celebrated in a poem written by William Roscoe. At the higher part on the right hand is a newly erected chapel belonging to the congregation of Scoth Seceders. It has a neat stone front, with a portico of the Doric Order. A little lower down on the same side are the Wellington Rooms, the front of which is of the Corinthian order. Continuing our walk we arrive at the point where Clarence-street and Rodney-street meet, and on the eastern side of the latter is seen the new Scotch Kirk. We now descend Mount Pleasant, and near the lower end pass a chapel belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists. Then inclining a little to the right we enter Ranelagh-place, on the higher side of which is situate the Adelphi Hotel.

5th Walk

From Church Street – Williamson Street – Williamson Square – Clayton Square – St John’s Market – Islington – Shaw street – Richmond Row – Byrom street – Whitechapel

Commencing this perambulation from Church-street, we pass through Williamson-square, where we have a view of the front of the Theatre. Then passing through Houghton-street we enter Clayton Square I which are several good inns; and continuing our source through Elliot-street, we pass the south entrance of St John’s Market , and proceeding along Great Charlotte-street, we arrive opposite the Amphitheatre, the front of which is covered with stucco. We now come to Queen’s Square, which though partially built many years since, is not yet completed. Leaving the Square we find ourselves in the old Haymarket, where we are presented with a good view of St John’s Church on the left, we soon arrive at Lime-street, and after a few steps we again visit the upper part of Shaw’s Brow. Passing along Commutation-row we immediately come to Islington, and arriving at the higher end of it we have a view of Brunswick Chapel, situate in Moss street, the front of which is composed of stone, and ornamented with an Ionic portico and pediment. Turning to the left we pass through Shaw-street, which is not yet completed, an on the eastern side of it stands St Augustine’s Church. "...This edifice is situate in Shaw-street, and was opened for diving service in 1830. The west end has a turret steeple, surmounted by an ogee dome. This church was built after the Egyptian style of architecture, and the outside is covered with stucco, in imitation of stone. The interior is well fitted up with pews..."
This being an elevated situation, we have an extensive view of the town and the northern part of the river. From this street we descend Everton-brow, and passing the Crescent on the right we soon come to Richmond-row, and after walking a short distance we arrive at St Anne-street, at the northern extremity of which is situate St Anne’s Church : the next street below is Rose-hill, where there are the office and gas-works belonging to the Liverpool Oil Gas Company. From the bottom of Richmond Row we enter Byrom-street and immediately pass the Baptist chapel, and at a farther distance on the same side stands St Stephen’s Church "...This structure was also first licenced for a Protestand Dissenting Chapel on the 9th of July 1722, but was afterwards consecrated to the service of the established church. It is situate at the south-end of Byrom street and is neatly fitted up with pews and a good organ...". Passing hence through the old Haymarket we arrive at Whitechapel, which was once part of the bed of the pool, and ferry-boats were stationed here for the purpose of conveying passengers across. This street brings us to the spot from which we started.

6th Walk

From the Town Hall – Vauxhall Road – Great Oxford Street North- Scotland road

Setting out from the Town Hall we pass through Exchange-street East, and in a few minutes arrive at Tithebarn-street, which is in no respect worthy of remark. At the other end we come to Vauxhall road and after proceeding some distance we approach the new Dispensary, the front of which is decorated with a handsome Ionic portico. In this neighbourhood there are many manufactories of various descriptions, the chimneys of which indicate their several situations.
Near to Burlington-street is stationed a portion of the Gas works, "....The discovery and use of gas have produced one of the most remarkable improvements of the present age. Could the ancients revisit this busy world, with what astonishment would they behold the myriads of brilliant flames that afford so splendid and varied an illumination, by means of which the disagreeableness and inconvenience of darkness are almost obviated. The Liverpool Gas Company was established on the 23rd May 1818, and the shares have frequently attained a price quadruple their original value. The premises where the gas is made are situate in Hatton Garden and Vauxhall road. The office is in Dale street, and the front of which is decorated with a stone figure of a liver, and beneath is inscribed the appropriate phrase - EX FUMO DARE LUCEM. this company lights nearly all of the streets, and the greatest part of the shops and offices.." and at a short distance further a remarkably high chimney, belonging to Mr Muspratt’s Chemical Works, is perceived a towering above the surrounding buildings; it’s height is 231 feet, the base 30 feet, and the summit 9 feet. It was erected by six men, in the short space of six weeks and three days.
Much of this land to the north of this spot is at present used for the purpose of making bricks, and on the western side of Vauxhall-road the Leeds and Liverpool Canal has it’s course. We are now arrived at Great Oxford-street North, on the south side of which is situate the Church of St Martin in the fields. Passing through this street we have before us a fine prospect of Everton which stands on an elevated situation, and is studded with numerous elegant residences, interspersed with lawns and shrubberies rising above each other on the declivity of the hill. At the top is seen St George’s Church, which adds greatly to the beauty of the surrounding scenery; and the buildings to the northern extremity gradually mingle with those of the village of Kirkdale. We now enter Scotland-road, the principal entrance of the north, which is crowded with numerous new houses, continued with very few interruptions as far as the last mentioned village. Directing our way to the south, we have in front an immense town, the superincumbent atmosphere of which is almost constantly tinged with the smoke that arises from numerous chimneys; and after proceeding some distance we arrive at the new Market; there are two fronts to this structure, one in Scotland rd, and the other in Bevington-hill, both of the Doric order, and each having three entrances, the middle or principal one having a handsome bold pediment, supported by four stately pillars. Pursuing our course we soon approach Byrom-street, through which we have already passed.