A Walk around Liverpool in 1812

Main source: a Stranger In Liverpool, Or, An Historical and Descriptive View of the Town of Liverpool and Its Environs written in 1812 by Thomas Kaye. Some hyperlinked pages go through to excerpts from The Stranger's Guide 1834. The images here are mine and some text is mine or taken from other sources.

As in a sea-port town the principal objects of curiousity to the stranger are the docks and shipping with their dependencies, we shall first accompany him in his perambulations in that quarter of the town, and in making the tour of the docks point out those objects which deserve attention, and add such remarks as may serve the purpose of general information withont subjecting him to the trouble of frequent inquiries.

Setting out from the Town-hall in the direction of Water-street, which leads immediately to George's- dock, at the lower end of the street, the attention is first drawn to an ancient stone building on the right hand. This is the Tower formerly belonging to the Stanley family, and occasionally their residence. Turning to the right through an ancient gothic arch, we proceed to the Old churchyard, the lower part of which is frequented as a promenade, and affords a pleasant view of the river and shipping. To this you descend by a few steps, the line of which once formed the boundary of the Old church-yard ; the extension westward, as well as the
whole space from the yard wall to the Pier-head, being artificial ground gained at different times from the river since the year 1749. At the south end of this walk stands the Merchants Coffee-house, where London and provincial newspapers are taken. It is much frequented, as it commands a view of the river and signal poles upon the opposite hills. Descending aflight of steps, and turning to the left, we proceed along the eastern side of George's-dock through an arcade formed by the extensive range of warehouses here erected. The number and extraordinary magnitude of the warehouses, which meet the eye in about every direction in the vicinity of the docks, is very interesting to a stranger. The elevation by which the number of these indispensable receptacles of merchandise is increased upon a smaller space of ground, their convenient situation upon the quays, and the facility with which goods are craned up to the highest stories,entitle them to peculiar notice. These, in connection with the docks, so admirably constructed for convenience and the dispatch of business, constitute Liverpool one of the most convenient ports in the world, and have, no doubt, a great share of influence in its commercial prosperity.

 The warehouses on this spot have the name of the Goree warehouses, and the arcade under which we pass, the Goree piazza. The warehouses which stood upon the site of the. present ones were a few years ago destroyed by fire. They were loftier by the height of two stories, and the loss sustained on the occasion, the warehouses being stored with goods, was estimated at little short of a million sterling. Winding round the corner of the dock, we come to one of the draw bridges which are thrown over its entrance. The mechanism of these bridges will be found worthy attention ; they are constructed upon the Dutch plan, and are equally to be admired for the ease and facility with which they are drawn up and down, and for their solidity, by which loaded carriages can pass over with equal safety as over an arch of stone.

Crossing the first of these bridges, and pursuing a straight direction, we arrive at the south end
of a gravelled ten-acre 280 yards in length, running along the side of the river; this is called the Parade, and is reserved solely for the purpose of a public walk. This is terminated by the Pier-head, on which is erected a battery of six guns for the defence of the
river. Round this fort the terrace is continued ; and is bounded on the north by the gut or entrance into a basin or dry-dock, which again leads to the north entrance of George's-dock. The objects which this charming promenade presents to the eye, especially at high water, render it peculiarly pleasing and attractive to a person unused to marine scenery. The prospect on the river, especially at the time of high water, presents a moving and ever-varying spectacle, which is rendered more interesting by the projection of the Pier-head, which
extends the view to a great distance up and down the river. A number of stately and well-built vessels ride at anchor in different situations, while others, under sail, move in various directions before the eye of the spectator. Some, laden with the produce of British
industry, are seen falling down the river, and committing themselves to the ocean ; and others, bearing home the productions of foreign climes, come into port, congratulated by ringing of bells, and the welcome looks of the interested spectators.

The picture is filled up and enlivened by numbers of small boats gliding in different directions through the water, scudding before the breeze, or impelled by the measured stroke of the oar. The mixture of pleasure and surprise with which a stranger views these scenes, so common to the inhabitant, is not to be wondered at. There is not perhaps a more striking object than a large vessel under sail. The stateliness and ease of its movements, and the promptitude with which it answers to the directing skill of the mariner, ahuost irresistibly force upon the mind the idea of animation, and present one of the strongest instances of the ingenuity and adventurous spirit of man.

On the opposite shore, which is a part of Cheshire, a number of houses are discovered distributed at different distances by the side of the river : these are chiefly ferry houses. Their white colour, contrasted with the green verdure of the fields which surround them, and intermixed with trees of variously shaded foliage, give the whole range of the shore a picturesque and pleasing appearance. The view westward is termutated by Bidston hill, on the summit of which the Lighthouse and signal poles are erected. The Lighthouse, at this distance, has something of the appearance of the tower of a country church, and is sometimes mistaken for one; it is an object of curiosity, and the stranger, if inclined to visit it, will, upon his arrival, find himself gratified not only with its construction and appendages, but with a most extensive prospect of the sea and adjoining coast, which its elevation commands. The poles are for the purpose of hoisting signals upon, by which intelligence of the approach of vessels is communicated to the town, long before they enter the river. Some of these poles are for the purpose of public signals, and others for the private and separate purpose of giving information to the owners of vessels of the approach of those which belong to them respectively. These are accurately distinguished, and the various particulars detailed, in a printed description of the Lighthouse and signals, which may easily be obtained.  Lower down, on the opposite side of the river, a the gun-powder magazine, securely and conveniently situated, in which all the powder in homeward bound vessels is deposited, and from whence those which are outward bound receive it upon their departure : no vessel in the docks being suffered to have powder on board under a severe penalty.

The shore northwards is terminated by the Rock point, on the extremity of which is a sea-mark, which in clear weather is distinctly. seen. Round this point the ships pass to and from sea. During war time, a frigate is stationed here for the defence of the river. Several batteries and a fort are likewise erected at different places ; the latter is seen a little lower on this side the river, and will be described in the sequel ; but the best defences of the town are the dangerous shoals at the entrance of the harbour, which shift their position every tide, and cannot be passed without the assistance of pilots, and the direction of buoys and sea-marks. On the south side of the Pier-head is a sloping road to the water called the Parade-slip, where a number of boats which ply for hire are constantly to be met with, and may be engaged to any of the opposite ferries ; or, when wind and tide permit, for sailing up and down the river. The buoys in the river arc for the purpose of hauling vessels out of the dock when (he wind is contrary, by means of ropes made fast to the iron rings which are fixed on the upper side. The double lamp upon the high pole serves the necessary purpose of directing vessels into the dock by night. Leaving this pleasing situation, instead of retracing the terrace, we take the western side of George's- dock.

The quay on this side is spacious, and having no warehouses or other buildings erected upon it, is less busy, and affords an opportunity of more leisurely surveying theshipping,  with which the dock is generally crowded. This quay is. separated from the Parade, with which it is parallel, by extensive timber yards.

Moving onwards, we arrive at the bridge we before crossed ; we may, however, pass to a second, farther on, upon the same entrance. Two bridges are placed here that the communication may not be interrupted, the act of parliament under which the dock was built enjoining for this purpose that one of them shall always be kept down. The range of buildings on the right has the name of Nova Scotia, where are the several offices for the Dublin packets, over against which they usually lie. Behind these is the Manchester quay where the barges from Manchester load and discharge their cargoes.

Onward are two graving- docks on this side of the gut or entrance into the Dry-dock from the river, and one on the other ; similar ones will be met with in our progress.

The road on the west side being obstructed by this gut, we cross the bridge to the east side of the Old Dry basin, This is the principal resort of small vessels from the northern coast and Scotland, which are distinguished by lettered boards hanging on their rigging, which specify their respective ports. The quay here is somewhat narrow and crowded, and the buildings, which form a motley group of warehouses, offices, shops, and public-houses, are irregular and unpleasing: but it is to be remembered that we are nowwhere industry and activity acquire property, and not where ease and leisure display it in the luxuries and elegancies of life. Arriving at the south end of this basin, the stranger
finds himself in the midst of noise and apparent confusion, surrounded with a vast variety of objects, some perfectly new, and others placed in relations in which body of the building is, from almost every point of view, nearly obscured by the surrounding houses, which crowd upon it on all sides ; and though of modern erection, it has assumed a black and gloomy appearance, from the smoke and filth of the neighbourhood, which gives it the semblance of an ancient and neglected edifice. Its lofty and beautiful spire rises, however, superior to the low and confined situation of the rest of the building, and is seen to great advantage from many of the higher parts of the town and its environs.
This side of the dock, like the other, is lined with public-houses, shops, warehouses, &c. ; the quay is broad and convenient; the ships with which this dock is generally occupied are chiefly British, and frequently exhibit, in their magnitude and construction, fine specimens of the perfection of our naval architecture, as well as the extensive commerce of the port to which most of them belong.

Meeting with little more than the recurrence of the same objects noticed before, we pass on, and turning to the left, through the street directly opposite the draw-bridge, we arrive at the Salthouse-dock, Several of the neighbouring streets present spectacles of vice and misery in their lowest forms, from which the heart turns with a disgust which almost overpowers the feelings of commiseration. Great as the advantages of extensive commerce are, it is deeply to be lamented, that dissipation and licentiousness should be its almost constant concomitants. In the present state of society, little more, it is tnie, may with reason be expected : but though the evil cannot be fully removed, it certainly becomes the duty of the magistrate and the philanthropist to adopt those measures which may render it less glaring and less offensive. Equally is it to be regretted, that more vigorous means of moral instruction are withheld from that valuable character a British sailor ; who, too often, for want of rational restraint, abandons himself to his passions, and destroys at once the hard-earned wages of a long and dangerous voyage, in the foul orgies of the basest and most criminal indulgences. This dock is of irregular form, but very spacious. The quay exhibits all the bustle and variety attendant on mercantile transactions, and, like those of the other docks, it is surrounded with warehouses, anchor-smithies, the shops of block and sail-makers, and cooking and public- houses.  Proceeding onward, we come to a small dock, constructed by the Duke of Bridgewater, and designed for the use of his flats, which are employed in conveying goods by the Runcorn canal, sixteen miles up the river,) to the interior of Lancashire, Cheshire, Staffordshire, Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire, and from thence, by different canals, to almost every part of the island.

At the head of the dock stands a spacious warehouse for the reception of the goods brought in these vessels, which are forty- two in number, of fifty tons each. A great number of vessels of this description, belonging to different proprietors, are also employed on the river, in the salt and coal trades. Proceeding onward in the same direction, we come to an extensive building, of only one story, which is the Tobacco-warehouse Turning on the right, along its north front, the King's-dock opens to view ; the situation of which, as well as the Queen's-dock, with which it is connected by one common basin or dry dock, being further removed from the town, is more airy, clean, and less encumbered with adjoining buildings than the docks already passed. These docks are chiefly the receptacles of American ships, with which they are often crowded, and present a pleasing view of the growing commerce of the rising empire of the United States, and of the mutual advantages which each country derives, from that amicable connexion which has generally subsisted between them since the independence of the former was acknowledged. In their naval architecture, the Americans appear to have learnt from their mother country how to unite the utile with the duke. Their ships' are generally large, well-built, and furnished with elegant accommodations for passengers. This dock has lately been considerably enlarged to the westward.

The west quay commands a fine view of the river, and of the opposite Cheshire shore. The land on the right, towards Bidston light-house, is rocky and barren : but, on the southward, the view stretches to a considerable distance, and presents to the eye a beautiful and well-cultivated country, fringed with rich enclosures, and skirted through its
whole length by the stream of the Mersey. Taking the view from this situation, where yon are half surrounded with ships, warehouses, and other commercial objects, the two great sources of our national wealth, commerce and agriculture, are, as it were, brought together, and presented at once to the reflections of the thinking mind. A poetic imagination might perhaps fancy the genius of commerce, from this station, smiling upon the opposite Softly swelling hills, On which the power of Cultivation lies., And joys to see the wonders of his toil.
Passing over the entrance into the King's-dock from the basin, we come to the Queen's-dock the last constructed, and largest of the whole. This, like the former, being a principal receptacle of American ships, and vessels laden with timber and naval stores from the north of Europe, the quay will generally be observed covered with the produce of those
countries.

The spacious adjoining yards receive the timber; and though there are yet but comparatively few warehouses in the neighbourhood of this dock, it will easily be seen, that the buildings are rapidly extending in this direction ; and, it is probable, that in a few years the Queen's-dock will be surrounded with as crowded a population, and as extensive ranges of necessary buildings for the reception of goods of different kinds, as any of the others, more in the centre of the town.

Crossing the elegant cast iron-bridge over the entrance, on the right hand are two graving-docks, for the repairing of ships, the construction" of which the stranger has now a convenient opportunity of observing. The object of these docks being to lay the ships dry for caulking, and other repairs, their gates are hung in a contrary direction to those of the wet docks : the intention of the former being to exclude and of the latter to retain the water brought in by the tide. These docks are constructed so as to receive three or four ships at once, lengthways, though too narrow to admit of more than one abreast. The steps, on the sides, alike serve for the convenient descent of the workmen, and the adjustment of the timber necessary to support the vessel and keep it upright. All the graving-docks open into the basins or dry docks, in which the water flows with the tide. By this means the ships are taken in and out at pleasure. When a ship is to be introduced for repairs, the gates of the Graving-dock are opened at low-water, when, upon the rise of the tide, it is filled
equally with the outer dock, and the vessel floated in ; upon the return of the tide the graving-dock is left dry, and the gates being then shut, the water is prevented from entering until the repairs are completed, when the gates are again opened at low water, and at high water the vessel is brought out. By this excellent and simple contrivance, the necessary alterations and repairs of the shipping are performed with a convenience and facility which surpasses every other mode before adopted for the same purposes. The
gates of the two graving-docks open a passage to the pier on the south side of the basin, from which there is an extensive prospect op and down the river. On this pier there is also a small fort.

Proceeding, we arrive at the south end of the Qneen's-dock, where are usually lying a number of timber ships, which discharge their cargoes upon this qnay, part of which is conveniently constructed in a sloping direction for the purpose. Having conducted the stranger to each of the docks, instead of retracing our steps on the same line, it may be more eligible to take in a small part of the town, on our return. We just observe, that, to avoid tediousness, the most prominent objects that have presented themselves have only been noticed ; and as there are numerous objects which an attentive person will not pass over without notice, and a part of the scene being also incapable of description, as it is ever varying with the time of the year, the influx of shipping, and those occurrences which a busy and crowded part of the town never fails of presenting, we must, in many instances, leave the observer to his own notices and reflections. The objects we have already surveyed will perhaps call to mind the appropriate lines of the descriptive Thomson :
Then Commerce brought into the public walk
The busy merchant ; the big warehouse built ;
Raised the strong crane ; choaked up the loaded street
With foreign plenty . On either hand,.
Like a long wintry forest, groves of masts
Shot up their spires ; the bellying sheet between
I'ossessed the breezy void; the sooty hulk
Steered sluggish on ; the splendid barge along
Row'd regular, to harmony ; around,
The boat iight skimming stretch'd its oary wings ;
While deep the various voice of fervent toil
From bank to bank increas'd : whence ribb'd with oak,
To bear the British thunder black and bold,
The roaring vessel rusb'd into the main.

Proceeding nearly eastward, from the south end of the Queen's-dock, we enter Parliament-street, which forms the boundary of Liverpool ; that part of the town on the right being called Harrington, an estate formerly belonging to the earl of Sefton, but now in the hands of several proprietors, who have erected buildings upon it. This is yet an unfinished street,
but is wide, with a good pavement, affording a convenient carriage-road to the docks. The buildings in the neighbourhood are chiefly cottages, warehouses, and manufactories. On the left, near the middle of the street, is an extensive iron-foundry, called the Liver-foundry : as we ascend, the houses are more spacious and respectable. The road which crosses
this street near the top leads on the left into the town, and on the right to Toxteth-park, belonging chiefly to the earl of Sefton. In the angle stands St. James's church, in a retired and rural situation, The building is of brick, ornamented within or without, but neat and commodious. The burial- ground is extensive and eligible. The whole has a pleasing and respectable appearance. The retrospect gives a view of the river, and Birkenhead priory on the opposite shore.

Taking the left-hand direction, we come to an opening where St. James's and Great George's-streets meet. The latter, with the adjoining square, we shall have occasion to notice in the sequel : turning, therefore, down the former, which takes its
name from the church we have just noticed, we have before us a long and closely-built street, which has the peculiarity of terminating with a church at each end. The fine spire of St. Thomas's church is here seen to advantage, but the tower and the body of the church are obscured by a lofty warehouse, and other adjoining buildings. The upper part of the street is .well built, and has many genteel houses; but the lower part, which has the name of Park-lane, is narrower, worse built, and less respectable. On the right, as we proceed, we observe several good streets, bearing the names of some of our most distinguished admirals. Nelson-street and St. Vincent-street lead immediately into Great George's-square ; and Cornwallis-street, yet unfinished, presents a pleasing opening into Duke-street. Through the opening of St. Vincent-street a view is obtained of St. Mark's church.
The streets on the left hand lead throughout the line to the King's, Queen's, and Salthouse-docks, and are for the most part, from their situation, narrow, dirty, and crowded with inhabitants.

Turning on the right, through Dickenson-street, we cross Frederick-street, and enter into Pitt-street, an extensive and populous street where, a little lower down, we meet with a spacious and elegant chapel, belonging to the methodists, called Pitt-street Chapel, Following the same direction, we enter into Cleveland-square. This square, which is
100 yards by 40, forming an area of 400 square yards, was formerly a place of genteel residence. In the centre was a rusticated obelisk, and a row of trees was planted in front of the houses. Opulence has now found more eligible situations ; the obelisk is removed, the trees are nearly destroyed, the houses are mostly converted into shops, and the square is now a market for provisions, with the usual appendages of shambles, benches, &c. From Cleveland-square we pass through Price's-street, to the head of the Old-dock; where, as it is nearly in the centre of the town, and at an ahuost equal distance from its principal
streets, we shall at present leave the stranger.

Having made the tour of the docks, and part of the town adjoining, we propose next to introduce the stranger to the principal streets and public buildings in the interior. The most eligible station from whence to commence our second route will be, as before, from the Town-hall. In this edifice, and the adjoining Exchange-buildings, the wealth and spirit of the opulent merchants of Liverpool are strikingly displayed. The Town-hall,  in addition to the dignity which so noble a building confers upon the street where it is situated, affords a beautiful object in perspective, by its well-constructed and lofty dome, from a variety of stations in the town and neighbourhood. The ground floor was originally intended for an exchange, by which name, till lately, it was designated ; but the merchants, by a strange predilection, preferring to meet in the open street, in despite of weather, or the
incommode the neighbouring shops when assailed by heavier storms than usual, it was never used for that purpose. The whole of the interior of the building having been destroyed by fire, in the year 1795, it was rebuilt within, in the present improved and elegant style, and appropriated to judicial purposes, offices for the police of the town, a mansion for the mayor,
a suit of assembly-rooms, and offices for the general business of the corporation. Since that time it has taken the appellation of the Town-hall. Behind this is that sumptuous erection the New Exchange-buildings, in which there is nothing to regret but the necessity which placed it in a situation so obscure as nearly to escape all observation, except on the very spot where it is erected. This building is intended to accommodate the merchants, brokers, underwriters, and others, who are devoted to mercantile pursuits. In the east wing is a coffee-room, 94 feet by 51, supported by large columns. Above this is another spacious room, 72 feet by 36, appropriated to the underwriters, &c., on the principle of that of Lloyd's, in London. The area, in front, is 194 feet by 180, in the centre of which it is intended to place a group of statuary, with appropriate ornaments, in commemoration of the heroic and immortal Nelson.

Returning to the southern front of the Town-hall, along its west side, we notice a capital range of well- built and lofty offices, chiefly occupied, in front, as insurance offices, which form a pleasing appendage to the adjoining erections, and prevent that sudden transition from the superb to the mean, from the elegant to the dirty, so conspicuous in the contrast with the
buildings at the upper end of Dale-street, a defect, however, which is rapidly remedying. The street which opens immediately from the Town-hall to the south is Castle-street, so called from the castle which formerly stood upon the site of St. George's church, This is a very spacious and beautiful street, and worthy of the elegant edifices which grace its northern termination. The houses are generally very lofty, .well-built, and uniform, and the shops spacious and elegant. The western side has, however, decidedly the preference, presenting a range of excellent and uniform buildings. Some irregularity is perceived on the opposite side, and a few houses remain which are comparatively paltry, and in some degree detract from the unity of the whole.

The view from this station has a degree of picturesque beauty. The group of houses, with the appearance of top-masts of the shipping in the Old-dock, in the distance ; the spire of the churches of St. George and St. Thomas, shouting above the extensive ranges of buildings on the right and left; with the crowd and bustle immediately beneath the eye, forms a view in its kind in many respects novel and interesting. That the street, according to the opinion of some, might have been rendered more complete, and the view more pleasing, by throwing the western side as far back as Lower Castle-street, cannot be doubted, as by this means a great part of the body of St.George's church would have enriched the perspective, and the whole front of the Town-hall been laid open to view. Much, however, has been done ; it has become equally a convenience and an ornament, and, in comparing it to the former narrow, dirty, and dark street which bore its name, it must be ranked among the most distinguished and beneficial improvements of the town. Should the resources of the corporation ever be employed in carrying the line on each side of 'the street through Pool- lane, which winds from the bottom of Castle-street to the Old-dock, it will then form one of the most noble streets in the kingdom, and perhaps equal to any in Europe.

Setting out from this station, on the east side of the street, near the, centre, is the Liverpool Arms hotel, of recent erection, and built throughout in a very respectable style. Over the archway is the Liverpool arms, well executed in artificial stone, by an artist in the town. Opposite the hotel is Brunswick - street, which leads to George's-dock, and gives a partial view of the shipping. In the open space at the bottom of Castle-street (which is called Derby- square) is St. George's church, a structure equally elegant in itself, and ornamental to the town. The discolouration of the stone, by the smoke from the surrounding houses, detracts something from its appearance; but its light and pleasing architecture is sufficiently striking. An elegant terrace, supported by rustic arches, is carried on each side of the road which has no yard, the place of interment being in vaults beneath the whole building. This church has not, however, that secluded solemnity which so well accords with our ideas of congruity in the situation of places devoted to divine worship. Around it is tha market for vegetables, fruit, poultry, butter, &c. ; and the adjoining streets, in all directions, are principal thoroughfares, always crowded, and always noisy.

The street on the right is Moor-street, at the top of which stands the Fish-market,  an object of some curiosity to the stranger the opening. in front is Pool-lane, being the continuation of Castle- street, and though much inferior, appears not to deserve the censure it has sometimes met with. It sinks only by comparison with the latter, and is, upon the whole, a respectable street, with many excellent shops. The view upwards, from Pool-lane, is peculiarly striking, affording a complete prospect of the south side of St. George's church, with its south terrace, and the octangular buildings which terminate its extremities, the whole length of Castle-street, the front of the Town-hall, and part of the light wing of the Exchange-buildings.  Turning into Castle-ditch, and taking a direction to the right, we enter upon Lord-street, which, from being the most general communication between the east and west sides of 'the town, is constantly crowded with passengers, and carriages of every description. Though a very respectable street, it is found, on this account, much too narrow for convenience, and by no means accom- dated for a mere saunter. It is still less favourable for observation ; for the eyes are too much occupied in avoiding the concussions of a crowd, who push forward without order or respect of persons, to obtain leisure to survey the different objects which the passage presents. Little, however, is to be seen but what is common to the central streets of large towns. The shops, though inferior to those of Castle-street, are generally large, and well furnished ; and though the buildings are rather irregular, and a few of them mean, there are several which, in a more favourable situation, would make a good appearance.

Arriving at the bottom of Lord-street, the street in front is Church-street, that on the right-hand is Paradise-street, and that on the left Whitechapel. The spot on.which we now stand has some interest, being the extreme boundary of the old tewn eastward. The water brought in by the tide, before the formation of the Old- dock, as before-noticed in the beginning of this work, flowed the whole length of Paradise-street and Whitechapel, which had then, and so late as 1773, the appellations of Common-shore and Frog-lane. At the opposite north east corner of Church-street till lately stood a small tenement, formerly called the Boat- house, where a ferry boat was stationed for the purpose of conveying passengers across the water into the town. By a plan of Liverpool, taken in the year 1725, it appears that the town had then extended but little beyond this boundary eastward. The houses in the whole line of Paradise-street and Whitechapel amounted to less than twenty in number ; and, with the exception of a few scattered habitations in the neighbourhood of St. Peter's church and on the south side of Church-street and School-lane, the whole was open on the east, and remained so, with little alteration, for several years afterwards. Lord-street itself was not then above two-thirds of its present length, a number of gardens extending from the place where we now stand along the whole west side of the Common-shore. Paradise-street, at the bottom of which is seen thespire of St. Thomas's church, has many good houses and shops, and is crowded with buildings throughout. By reason of the lowness of its situation, it experiences great inconveniences after a fall of heavy rain or snow; which, by producing a great influx of water from the surrounding higher grounds, overflows the street and houses, and frequently forces the inhabitants of the cellars with their beds and furniture, from their habitations. It is a street, nevertheless, remarkably populous ; though, from these circumstances, it must be very unfavourable to health.

There being nothing here peculiarly worthy of remark, except the Presbyterian chapel, which is a spacious and elegant octangular building, on the left, at the upper end of the street, we may proceed eastward up Church-street. The buildings
here are chiefly of modern erection, the street is spacious and well paved, and is rapidly becoming a place of business, as well as residence ; a great number of private dwellings having been, within a few years, converted into retail shops. This is, however, chiefly confined to the north side of the street, the yard-wall of St. Peter's church taking up a great part of the opposite side ; but it amply atones for the encroachment by rendering a great part of the street the more open, airy, and cheerful. St. Peter's was the second church erected in Liverpool, when Liverpool was made a distinct parish from Walton. It is a plain handsome edifice, with a spacious burial- ground. At the time of its erection it was out of thelimits of the town : and, though now surrounded with streets, its extensive yard somewhat secludes it from noise and interruption. On the south side of the church-yard, the Bluecoat Hospital is discovered,  it is built of brick, ornamented with stone, with two large and deep wings. It was finished, in its present extensive scale, in 1726 ; but it has a more modern appearance, owing to a late embellishment of the brick and stonework in front. The benevolent mind dwells with peculiar satisfaction on those institutions which have instruction for their object, and which extend it where it is most necessary, and yet most unattainable, to the children of the poor.

Proceeding forward, on the right is the Dispensary, a good and convenient brick building, with a circular portico, on which the name of the institution is written. In the front is a well-executed bas-relief, the subject the good Samaritan ; its merits are, however, lost,
its height preventing a near inspection. The opening adjoining the Dispensary leads to the Post-office, Higher up, on the same side, is a library and news-room, denominated the Athenaeum, This erection was finished at the expense of £4,000 and comprises a most excellent and valuable collection of books, rapidly increasing every year both in value and extent, which, however, are not allowed to
circulate, a regulation which has the advantage of always securing an inspection of any book which the Library contains, and an advantage which a circulating library cannot from its nature possess. A nonresident may be introduced by a subscriber, on entering his name in a book kept for that purpose. The handsome stone front of this erection, with the respectability of the adjoining buildings, form a considerable improvement to this part of Church-street. The Lyceum, a very sumptuous edifice, devoted to the same purposes as the former, now breaks upon the view, and presents its west front, with a shrubbery, enclosed by an iron railing, disposed into a semicircle. Four streets meeting here, its situation is open, but would have been more commanding and ornamental had it not been for the sudden bend in the upper part of Church-street, by which it is turned out of the line and somewhat obscured.

The library here is continually accumulating, and the books circulate among the subscribers. In this respect the institution has become a public benefit, as the structure itself is a public ornament. The street on the left is Ranelagh-street, an improving and spacious street, terminated by a range of excellent houses at the top, which lake the appellation of Ranelagh-place. Hanover-street, on the right, from the recent improvements in the town, has lost its former credit, but has yet a few good bouses remaining.

Taking the direction in front we enter upon Bold-street, and passing the principal front of the Lyceum, have an opportunity of observing its beautiful architecture, alike creditable to the abilities of the architect and the spirit of the town, Adjoining the Lyceum is the Billiard-room, a circular building, erected originally for the exhibition of panoramic paintings. Near the middle of the street, on the opposite side, is a building with a portico projecting over the parapet, supported by four columns. It was formerly called the Music-hall, but is likely,
for want of encouragement, to be alienated from its original purpose. It is now shut up. Near the top of the street, to which, however, our ramble does not extend, is the Freemasons' hall, an insulated building, with a stone front. The meetings of the fraternity are held there, and the large room is occasionally appropriated to the use of such philosophical lecturers,
teachers of eloquence, &c. as happen to visit the town, and in this respect may be considered as a public accommodation.  

Turning to the right, up Slater-street, we leave Bold-street, than which there are few more more respectable in the town, and pass into Duke-street by the east side of the Union newsroom, This building is on a large scalp, and fronts into Duke-street, from the opposite side of which, it may be conveniently observed. The front is of stone. The execution of the union arms, at the top, does great credit to the artist. The expense of this erection was near .£6,000. From this station, we have a complete view of the street to the east and west: it is more than half a mile long; at the bottom narrow, and irregularly built, but improves at every advance, and for the greater part of its length, is severed on each side with a great number of genteel, and some elegant, houses. Its acclivity, and the gradual enlargement of its width, to the upper extremity, add ranch to its appearance. It may be justly denominated one of the best streets in the town, and affords, from its distance from the noise and bustle of business, a sequestered and tranquil retirement.

Near the top of this street, on the left, stands St. Mark's Church and a little on this side, on the right, Great George's and Nelson streets. The latter leading immediately to Great GeorgeV Square, we shall follow its direction. This and the adjoining streets have been newly laid out, and though not wholly finished, are fast approaching to completion.
The square at which we now arrive will be, when finished, beyond comparison, the first in the town ; the buildings designed for the west side are not yet all of them begun, those on the north and east are partially completed, those on the south are wholly so, and afford a fine specimen of the whole. They are lofty, capacious, and elegant, and receive additional
embellishment from the spacious and thriving shrubbery which graces the centre of the square. The name of this square, and the adjoining street, was given them in honour of his present Majesty : and those of the streets diverging from them, in commemoration of those victorious admirals who have so gallantly supported the honour of his crown, and the
dignity of his empire. The foundation stone of the pedestal of a grand equestrian bronze statue of our beloved sovereign was laid in the centre of this square, on the day of the national jubilee. This monument of the loyalty of the town has not yet had sufficient
time for its completion.

 Proceeding along Upper Pitt-street, we again enter Great George's-street, and, continuing our rout, come once more to St. James's church ; when, turning on Hie left, up the higher part of Parliament-street, we arrive at the southern extremity of St. James's-walk, or, as it is generally called, the Mount. Before we advance upon the terrace, the stone- quarry behind it may be noticed. From this quarry the stone for many of the public works, and particularly for the construction of the docks, piers, and quays, is procured. Human labour has here exposed to view a surface of solid stone of astonishing extent ; and from the loose materials which were recumbent upon the bed of stone, the terrace and gardens in
front have been raised. A chalybeate spring formerly existed in this quarry, to which great medicinal virtues were imputed; but the body of stone from whence it issued being removed it is now lost. Ascending the steps, we enter upon the terrace, which is 400 yards in length, and commands a fine and interesting
prospect. The river and opposite coast taking a curve-like direction, and winding from the south-east to the north, dispose the landscape into the
form of an extensive amphitheatre, exhibiting a vast variety of beautiful and striking objects.

On the left, the prospect is bounded by the distant mountains of Flintshire and Denbighshire, in North Wales. Immediately opposite, the river is brought nearer to view, where are generally seen a number of large ships, under sail, or reposing on its surface at anchor. The soft swelling of the opposite shore, and the scattered houses which rise upon the view, at different distances, grace and diversify the whole. Bidston surmounted with the Lighthouse and signal poles, terminates the prospect in this direction ; but, a little more to the north, a sudden declivity opens a view of the sea, from which, on a clear day, vessels may be seen at a considerable distance. The hill to the right of this opening again attains its elevation, and then gradually declines to the extremity of the Cheshire shore, at the Rock-point. The fine opening where the Mersey disembogues its waters into the Irish sea is generally obscured by the interposing smoke of the town, but from a subsequent station will be seen to advantage. A considerable part of the town now falls under the eye, and finishes the view by a vast assemblage of buildings, covering the declivity of the hill, and intermingled with the lofty tops of the public edifices which present themselves in all the various forms which taste and opulence have impressed upon them, and equally mark the progress of refinement in the town of Liverpool, and the spirited character of its inhabitants.

This prospect is at all times interesting ; but it is, perhaps, the more so on a clear and calm evening in summer when the sun is just sinking below the horizon. The reflection of the sun's parting beams from the extreme elevation of the towers, spires, and domes of the public buildings; the varied columns of smoke gently curving in the middle region of the atmosphere ; the white and transparent surface of the river, contrasted with the dark and rich verdure of the opposite fields, which is again diversified by the starting from the summit of the hill, and surrounded with trees, gardens, and fields, have a rural and cheerful effect,the the foreground of the picture detracts from the whole. Stone walls, land barren even in summer, and roads of sand, are equally unexpected and unpleasing in the vicinity of so large and improved a town. On our right are the Alms-houses, in a retired and airy situation and, adjoining these, a most spacious and excellent burial ground for the poor, at the head of which stands a small chapel The House of Industry is on our left, where its two deep back wings are discovered above the high brick wall which encloses it.  

Taking the left road, we pass the House of Correction, and come round to the House of Recovery, and the House of Industry,  These erections have the great advantage of an open and healthful situation. The appearance of the latter is rendered peculiarly pleasing, by the spacious area in front, and the shrubbery which encloses it. The street immediately opposite the front of this building is Brownlow-street : that leading into the town is Brownlow-hill, formerly Poor-house-lane.

 Proceeding downwards, towards Shaw's- brow, we pass several new streets which are rapidly completing, and arrive at the Blind Asylum, or more properly, the School for the Blind. The building is of stone, neat, and respectable, to which additional wings of large dimensions ar'; now added. But it is the institution itself which claims regard, and at once awakens the feelings, and secures the warmest approbation of the heart. The nature, objects, and regulations of this charity, and it is here only necessary to observe, that the school may be visited at all times by the stranger, or inhabitant, upon presenting a note from a subscriber. No demand is made upon the visitants on this occasion ; but we believe that there are few persons who, when they have noticed the well-adapted and efficacious means that are here used for the alleviation of one of the greatest of human miseries, — the cheerful looks and dispositions of the unfortunate persons who, by employment, are here preserved from those distressing reflections which, under other circumstances, so deeply prey upon the feelings, — and that expertness with which, through judicious instruction, they perform their manual occupations, and are thus fully enabled to secure a comfortable subsistence in the world, independent of charity, — few persons, we believe, will depart from so interesting a spectacle .without leaving a tribute at this shrine of pity, and contributing something to the support of an institution so honourably conducted, and so beneficial in its operation. It is also but just to remark, that the great success attending this institution is to be attributed chiefly to the great and unwearied exertions of its principal conductors, who have thus, by advancing the credit of the school, secured the confidence and the liberal patronage of the public.

Onward, we arrive at the Infirmary, and Seaman's Hospital, the latter forming part of the external appearance of the Infirmary, the two wings of which are applied for this purpose. The situation of the Infirmary, though not so open as formerly, on account of the more recent extension of the town, is yet sufficiently so for the purpose of health. It has an opening in front, in addition to its enclosed area, and is equally exposed to the back ; with the addition of extensive gardens.

Proceeding down Shaw's-brow, we cross a busy and populous street, called Byrom-street, and enter Dale-street, in which there is little to be noticed. It is one of the oldest streets in the town, and a great thoroughfare. The houses are chiefly irregular, ill- built, and ancient ; and the street itself too narrow for the number of passengers and carriages which are
continually passing through it. This has not escaped the notice of the corporation, and a plan has been made for enlarging its width throughout. Eastward from the Town-hall it has already been widened according to this design, and the buildings erected in the new line of the street are lofty and uniform : when the whole is completed it will form a most excellent street, and constitute one of the greatest improvements the town is capable of.

Arriving at the Town-hall, the place from whence we commenced our ramble, we again leave the stranger to prepare for a third excursion.   
Commencing our route as before, from the Town-hall, we pass through the central opening in the Exchange- buildings, and enter Chapel-street, one of the oldest streets, and, like others of the same date, narrow, and ill-built. Taking the left direction, we pass St. Nicholas's Church, at the lower end of the street, and find ourselves once more in the neighbourhood of the river. Proceeding northward, in a line
with the New-quay, we arrive at the Baths, equally eligible in their situation, and convenient in their accommodations. A little beyond the Baths is the Fort, into which we enter through a stone gateway, ornamented at the top with the figures of a lion and a liver, the latter an ideal aquatic bird, from which some have supposed Liverpool to have derived
its name. The area of the Fort is spacious, and contains buildings for the accommodation of the soldiery, the reception of ammunition, &c. It has a numerous and very formidable artillery, which commands the river in every direction. It is open for public recreation, and affords an airy walk, and a pleasing prospect of the lower part of the river, and
the north shore.

Turning up Denison-street, a little beyond the Fort, on the opposite side, we obtain a view of the New gaol, a large and extensive building on the plan recommended by the celebrated Mr. Howard. This place was for some years a receptacle for the French prisoners of war ; it is now, however, used as a borough gaol, and has superseded the ancient tower which was long appropriated to that purpose. It is airy and well-constructed, and its elevated situation will be very favourable to the health of its unfortunate inmates.
Turning to the right, we pass over a bridge, at the head of the Leeds and Liverpool canal, where are numerous and very extensive coal-yards, and, after proceeding a few hundred yards along Oldhall-street, an opening on the left dicovers St. Paul's church, Taking this direction, we come to its west front, and have an opportunity of examining this costly structure. Its obscured situation is to be regretted. Closely surrounded with houses, the dome only can be discovered at a distance ; and a building which, placed in a different situation, might have been an admired ornament of the town, is so completely buried that it is likely that not more than one stranger in fifty has ever, during his stay in town, seen more than a distant view of its steeple. Proceeding along its south front through Prussia-street, and taking the direction of Highfield-street, into Tythebarn-street, we turn on the left, and presently enter Great Crosshall street. We pass thus hastily on, because in these streets there is nothing worthy of attention.

At the bottom of Great Crosshall-street, which is a new street, not completely built, we enter Byrom-street which exhibits a number of recent erections and improvements.  Scotland-road;which is a continuation of Byrom-street, and pass the Baptist chapel, and a very extensive brewery.

Passing the opening of a few streets, we turn up on the right to All Saints church, a brick building, without any thing to recommend it to particular notice. A little higher than this is St. Anne's church, standing at the bottom of St. Anne- street. It is likewise of brick; within neat and commodious, but on the outside rendered paltry by an attempt at ancient decoration. We enter St. Anne- street by a footway on the west side of the burial ground. This is a noble and well-built street, of considerable width, and has what few of the. streets in Liverpool possess, a flagged parapet through its whole length on each side. The houses are mostly elegant, and inhabited by some of the most respectable families.
Near the top of this street stands Trinity church, and on the same line is Norton-street, which is again continued by Russel-street. On the summit of the rising ground, where Norton and Russel-streets join each other, a view of the whole line of St. Annes, Norton, Russel, and Clarence-streets, is obtained. These, when built throughout, will form an elegant line of streets, of very considerable length, and favoured by a graceful declivity of the ground.

Passing through R ussel- street, among the recent erections we notice the Welch charity. school, a low but extensive building of one story, and enter the lower part of Brownlow-hill.

Proceeding in this direction, we arrive at Ranelagh-place, a range of genteel houses, standing at the top of Ranelagh-street, a name derived from the Ranelagh-gardens which formerly occupied this site, and were at one time a favourite place of resort and amusement, oratorios and concerts being performed twice a week in the open air.

Turning on the right, along Case's-street, we are led into Clayton-square. This square is of considerable extent, and is a residence of some consideration, though upon the decline. In forming this square there was, doubtless, some attempt at embellishment ; but owing to late and superior improvements, it appears miserably to have failed. The houses are
spacious and uniform ; but the dull and dirty colour of the bricks of which they are built, assimilating them to the hue of the wide and unvaried pebble pavement of the area which they surround, gives the whole a dark, gloomy, and monastic appearance. The parapet is flagged, but kept in wretched condition, and general neglect is evident in the whole. Of late,
however, a little paint has been bestowed on the fronts of 'some of the houses, which is, perhaps, an indication of an intention to rescue the character of tihe square, and to give to it a respectability of appearance equal to the magnitude of its buildings and the intention of the founder.

Proceeding along the same side of the square we first entered upon we are next conducted through Houghton-street into Williamson-square. Here, as nothing has been attempted, we are not subject to disappointment ; and whatever may be deficient is amply compensated by the noble stone front of the Theatre, Passing though the opposite opening, we enter Whitechapel, before mentioned, and, turning to the left, arrive at the bottom of Lord-street.

These pedestrian excursions, though they may be justly complained of as fatiguing, will yet be found to be the most eligible mode of obtaining- a thorough acquaintance with the principal parts of the town, with the additional convenience of being able to examine the public structures as they are pointed out in the respective routes we have traced. But, as the
stranger may also wish to visit the environs, we shall next point out a pleasant ride, in which the most interesting objects in the immediate neighbourhood of Liverpool will present themselves to observation.

Walk around the Environs of Liverpool

INNS AND TAVERNS

. THESE are very numerous; the principal are —

The LIVERPOOL ARMS HOTEL in Castle street, kept by Mr. Lillyman. The building is nearly new, and elegantly finished.

The KING'S ARMS, Water-street. Extensive premises, and good accommodations.

The TALBOT HOTEL AND LONDON TAVERN, adjoining the former. A spacious and convenient house, with requisite accommodations. Frequented by travellers. The London Mail runs to this house.

The CROWN INN, Red-cross-street. Coaches to London and Carlisle.

The GOLDEN LION, top of Dale-street, formerly the largest inn in town, has extensive accommodations for travellers. Warrington, Manchester, and other stage coaches

The ANGEL INN, Dale-street, also a travellers inn, much frequented. Coaches to Warriugton, Manchester, London, and Bath.

The GEORGE INN, Dale-street, is nearly new and has good accommodations.

 The TRAFALGAR INN, Dale-street.

 The SARACEN'S HEAD, Dale-street. There are numerous travellers, carriers, and coach inns in Dale-street, and other central parts of the town, for which we must refer the reader to the Directory, as also for the different mail and post coaches, where the inns from which they set out, the times and directions, are particularly specified.

The STAR AND GARTER TAVERN, in Paradise-street.

The GLOBE TAVERN, John-street.

 The YORK HOTEL, Williamson-square.

The inns and taverns in Liverpool are very numerous, and cannot be all detailed ; the stranger will find in all of them of respectable name, a civility and attention which, in houses of this description, are not in all places to be met with. Private lodgings are also numerous, and may be obtained in the best and most genteel neighbourhoods. Information of this kind is often to be met with at the inns and taverns.

FERRY-BOATS.

The RUNCORN PACKETS sail every day, from th« Parade-slip, for Runcorn. This is a safe and agreeable conveyance.

 The Lady Stanley Packet sails every day, from the south end of the Parade, to WESTON POINT. To ELLESMERE CANAL two double-decked boats sail daily, about three hours before high water, from the south end of the Parade. A complete CANAL PACKET meets these boats at the canal, with passengers from Chester, who proceed to Liverpool on the return of the boats, while the boat's passengers are forwarded to Chester, by the return of the packet.

 The EASTHAM BOAT sails every day, as the tides permit, from Gcorge's-dock basin to Eastham, and there meets the Chester coach, by which the passengers are conveyed to and from Chester.

 The INCE BOAT sails every day from George's-dock basin, three hours before high water.

 To SEACOMB, WOODSIDE, TRANMERE, ROCK- HOUSE, and NEW FERRY, ferry-boats are constantly passing and repassing with passengers, horses, carriages, cattle, &c. From Tranmere are two coaches, one in the morning and the other in the evening to Chester, and from Woodside the Chester Mail Coach every evening.

 The WIGAN PACKET, on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, sails every morning, at eight o'clock, for Wigan, and arrives at five in the evening. Boats may be taken at any time of the day to any part of the river. The fares depend upon the stipulation made with the boatmen, who are liable to impose on strangers. The agreement should be made before embarking. HACKNEY COACHES. These useful accommodations may be had at any time, to any part of the town, at reasonable fares . which being fixed as under, and the whole subjected

Caryl Williams www.old-liverpool.co.uk Old Liverpool c 1998-2008